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Let's Talk About Gaslands
- Disgustipater
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- Dapper Deep One
For terrain, at bare minimum, you should have 3 or 4 gates and starting/finish lines, which just need to be two upright posts/somethings with a Long Straight template distance between them.Gary Sax wrote: 4) Terrain---any terrain recommendations? Cheap and storeable is good here, but ultimately this is my lowest priority.
If you are interested, and the timing works out for you, I could print you some terrain and mail it to you. Material cost would probably be less than $15, and it doesn't weigh much. Painting it is pretty easy. All the gates you just need to sponge on some silver and sponge on some rust brown. Jersey barriers paint gray and sponge darker gray, etc. I could do any or all the stuff below.
Starting line and finish line (two copies of the structure):
Gates 1-4:
Fencing:
Plastic Barriers:
Jersey barriers (intact and damaged), tire piles, junk piles, pallet of barrels:
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Thanks for all the links... I might take you up on those start/finish line terrain items if you're willing and have time.
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- Michael Barnes
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There are a couple of Citadel paints that may be worth investing in:
Agrax Earthshade- the classic chestnut wash- makes even a lime green Countach look grimy and tore up.
Typhus Corrosion- a dark, milky brown with grit texture in it. Apply with a sponge for instant filth.
Ryza Rust- bright orange dry paint that gives you an instant rust look. Works great on Typhus Corrosion. Don’t be scared of the color, when drybrushed it is the right shade.
Necron Compound- really shiny silver dry paint. Make painted metals look flaked and worn at the edges. Looks great on blacks (such as on weapons).
I’d also recommend their Munitorium Varnish- it’s expensive, but it is the best matte varnish I’ve tried.
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- Disgustipater
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Absolutely. If all you want are the Start and Finish line gates, those can be done in 2 days or so. Let me know and I'll start them.Gary Sax wrote: I might take you up on those start/finish line terrain items if you're willing and have time.
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- ModelVillain
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Michael Barnes wrote: Yeah, I’d just go go for the $1 bottles and not the .50 ones.
There are a couple of Citadel paints that may be worth investing in:
Agrax Earthshade- the classic chestnut wash- makes even a lime green Countach look grimy and tore up.
Typhus Corrosion- a dark, milky brown with grit texture in it. Apply with a sponge for instant filth.
Ryza Rust- bright orange dry paint that gives you an instant rust look. Works great on Typhus Corrosion. Don’t be scared of the color, when drybrushed it is the right shade.
Necron Compound- really shiny silver dry paint. Make painted metals look flaked and worn at the edges. Looks great on blacks (such as on weapons).
I’d also recommend their Munitorium Varnish- it’s expensive, but it is the best matte varnish I’ve tried.
^^ This! For Gaslands you're not so much painting, as you are wearing, distressing, and finishing. I'd agree the easiest thing to do isn't apply a basecoat + layers of acrylics, but sand down/wash/sponge/drybrush/seal an already painted vehicle.
If you can buy some cheaper art store paints and know how to improvise color/texture etc. then by all means go for it -- you may just need to experiment with a witch's brew of mixes and thinning. Otherwise, I think Barnes is on point -- the Citadel / hobby paint stuff really shines, even when it comes to value-for-money -- they're made and mixed to do exactly what you want. Super easy to apply, and the results are excellent.
Plenty of published/community online paint guides too, spanning virtually any minis game or line, GW or otherwise. Knowing exactly what named paints to use (or how to map them to other/cheaper lines) can save a bunch of time
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- Michael Barnes
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He also made a great point there- don’t think of this as painting the cars- you can do that, but if you just want table ready Mad Max cars, you don’t have to repaint them at all. You see a lot of stuff out there where people are disassembling their cars and all that but I don’t see the point.
One thing you might want to do is to get some Tamiya masking tape- it’s really thin and you can use it to cover windshields and windows. When you hit the car with the varnish, it makes the windows look milky and opaque. You might not mind it and and you can paint them black or whatever, but if you want clear windshields you’ll have to do this.
I’m about to get back into this racket myself, picked up some new cars to play with and some of those Northstar weapons.
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I have an MDF Taco Bell store that is in perfect scale and I can't WAIT to get it painted up and weathered.
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The tape tip is a good one. I'm looking at amazon right now---will 6mm be sufficiently small for me to cover up some windows, etc? I'll have to think about how deep I want to go on "real" paint.
PS: I PMed you Disgustipater
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- Michael Barnes
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I love the one in the book that has other cars for armor.
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- Michael Barnes
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I love the one in the book that has other cars for armor.
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www.aliexpress.com/item/32908717608.html...1,searchweb201603_55
www.aliexpress.com/item/32834995252.html...1,searchweb201603_55
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